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I Vecchi Credenti sono una comunità religiosa scismatica sorta a metà Seicento in seguito ad alcune riforme della chiesa ortodossa russa. Oggi vivono soprattutto nella Federazione Russa, dove sono circa 2 milioni, ma le comunità di fedeli sono diffuse in tutto il mondo.
I Vecchi Credenti, in Estonia, si stabilirono lungo le sponde del lago Peipus nel XVII secolo, in fuga dalle persecuzioni dell’impero zarista. Oggi i circa 2.500 i fedeli estoni abitano perlopiù in piccoli villaggi lungo una strada che viene chiamata Via della Cipolla. Questo curioso nome risale all’epoca sovietica, quando la zona riforniva di ortaggi, soprattutto cipolle, i mercati della vicina Pietroburgo. Dopo il collasso dell’URSS e la nascita dei confini, questo commercio venne però bloccato.
È il turismo oggi a ridare vita a questi villaggi di Vecchi Credenti. Bancarelle di cipolle intrecciate e pesce fresco o affumicato si alternano una all’altra lungo la Via della Cipolla in attesa degli avventori.
Marco Carlone
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